Engine Factory turnkey engines are designed for easy installation. your decision should be based on your experience and expertise. after reviewing this article you must decide if you have the proper equipment and expertise to successfully install your engine safely.  if you don’t then please consult a Professional installer.  (Note: not all items apply)


  • Start by disconnecting your battery cables and removing battery from your vehicle, this eliminates any possibility of shorting out any wires.
  • Disconnect fuel lines as necessary and immediately cap off.  a well known method is to insert a bolt in the rubber fuel line and install a mini clamp to seal off leaking fuel. Use extra caution on fuel injected systems, the pressure can be 10 times the pressure of a carbureted system. Never use a drop light when working near gasoline or fumes, if the drop light falls and the bulb breaks the glowing filament can ignite the gas or fumes causing and instant fire.
  • Never disconnect any air condition lines! They have high pressure refrigerant which can cause severe burns or eye damage.  If the air condition compressor must be removed leave the lines on the compressor, unbolt the compressor with the lines attached and tie compressor up out of the way with a piece of rope to the inside fender.
  • Remove hood being careful with hood springs and hinges always keep fingers clear. Before loosening hinge bolts scribe their location for easier hood alignment when reinstalling hood.
  • Tag any wires and vacuum lines for proper location on reassembly.
  • Keep all tools clean, and use proper size sockets.
  • Use small plastic bags and a magic marker to properly identify bolts that you take off so they can be installed correctly in the proper location upon reassembly.
  • Any parts removed should be inspected for wear or flaws.  Keep a list of new parts to be ordered.
  • When it is time to jack up your vehicle to disconnect under the vehicle you will need the following—a jack that has the proper capacity to lift the vehicle, jack stands that have the proper capacity to support the vehicle —- never go under a vehicle that is only held up by a jack. The best way is to start out on level solid ground cement is best, lift the vehicle with the jack at the proper lifting points then properly set the jack stands and lower the vehicle on to the stands. Once vehicle is safely lifted and secured then use a creeper to go under it. you will need safety glasses because anything you disconnect under vehicle will have a lot of rust and road dirt on it.
  • Many mechanics will try to remove the engine and transmission as an assembly, this is a judgment call. If possible it may be easier to line up the trans & engine when it is out of the chassis as an assembly. But be sure that the hoist you’re using is capable of the combined weight of engine and transmission assembly. if you choose to leave the transmission in the chassis, then properly support it before removing engine. be sure to use common sense at this point, you’ll be lifting a lot of weight so never work under an engine that is up in the air, lower it first. Always think of it this way, if it slips or falls where will you be. Always stay clear.


  1. Many times a radiator looks acceptable. But the truth of the matter is the tiny little tubes that the coolant flows through can be partially restricted and cause overheating & engine damage. You’ve made a considerable investment in an engine-protect it! We recommend replacing the original radiator with a 3 core heavy duty radiator.
  2. Hoses and clamps: hoses can collapse, leak, or suck air into system, replace all hoses. Caution lower radiator hose must contain a coil spring inside it or it can collapse at highway speed and starve block for coolant.
  3. Fan shroud helps the fan pull cool air through the radiator, check for cracks or missing pieces.
  4. Radiator cap – most modern engines require a 16 lb. cap. For every lb. of pressure that you raise your cooling system you raise your boiling point 2 degrees.  Example normal boiling point is 212 degrees with a 16 lb. cap your boiling point now becomes 240 degrees.
  5. Fan and or fan clutch – this is important for proper cooling. an easy way to check to see if the fan is pulling the proper amount of air through the radiator, place a piece of newspaper on the front of the radiator if the fan is working properly it will pull the newspaper tightly against the radiator. We recommend and electric fan that pulls 3300 CFMS of air through the radiator. Part # Flex 180 available at www.summitracing.com  or similar
  6. Replace fan belts and check pulleys for cracks or damage, a broken $ 5.00 belt could waste a $10,000 engine.
  7. Motor mounts, a broken or sagged mount can cause serious vibrations.
  8. Check exhaust system for any rusted out parts.
  9. Check clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearing for wear.
  10. Check automatic Trans for leaks, broken mounts, or leaky modulator.
  11. Driveshaft – check universal joints for wear
  12. Look over any special sensors or switches. Replace as necessary



We do not guarantee this engine will pass an emissions / smog test.  Each State and Country adheres to its own rules and regulations when it comes to emission testing.  Some vehicles are exempt from these laws or can be grandfathered in.  Always check local jurisdictions.