ENGINE FACTORY INSTALLATION TIPS & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Engine Factory Turnkey Engines are Designed for Easy Installation. Your decision should be based on your experience and Expertise. After Reviewing this Article you must decide if you have the proper equipment and Expertise to successfully install your engine safely.  If you Don’t then Please consult a professional installer.

SAFETY IS THE NUMBER 1 PRIORITY & THIS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY

Always have Work Area organized, Well Ventilated & properly Lit.

SAFETY IS THE NUMBER 1 PRIORITY & THIS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY

Always have Work Area organized, Well Ventilated & properly Lit.

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1                    START BY DISCONNECTING YOUR BATTERY CABLES AND REMOVING BATTERY FROM YOUR VEHICLE, THIS ELIMINATES ANY POSSIBILITY OF SHORTING OUT ANY WIRES.

2                    DISCONNECT FUEL LINES AS NECESSARY AND IMMEDIATELY CAP OFF.  A WELL KNOWN METHOD IS TO INSERT A BOLT IN THE RUBBER FUEL LINE AND INSTALL A MINI CLAMP TO SEAL OFF LEAKING FUEL. USE EXTRA CAUTION ON FUEL INJECTED SYSTEMS, THE PRESSURE CAN BE 10 TIMES THE PRESSURE OF A CARBURETED SYSTEM. NEVER USE A DROP LIGHT WHEN WORKING NEAR GASOLINE OR FUMES, IF THE DROP LIGHT FALLS AND THE BULB BREAKS THE GLOWING FILAMENT CAN IGNITE THE GAS OR FUMES CAUSING AND INSTANT FIRE.

3                    NEVER DISCONNECT ANY AIR CONDITION LINES ! THEY HAVE HIGH PRESSURE REFRIGERANT WHICH CAN CAUSE SEVERE BURNS OR EYE DAMAGE.  IF THE AIR CONDITION COMPRESSOR MUST BE REMOVED LEAVE LINES ON COMPRESSOR, UNBOLT WITH THE LINES ATTACHED AND TIE COMPRESSOR UP OUT OF THE WAY WITH A PIECE OF ROPE TO THE INSIDE FENDER.

4                    REMOVE HOOD BEING CAREFUL WITH HOOD SPRINGS AND HINGESMANY FINGERS HAVE BEEN LOST HERE. BEFORE LOOSENING HINGE BOLTS SCRIBE THEIR LOCATION FOR EASIER HOOD ALIGNMENT WHEN REINSTALLING HOOD.

5        TAG ANY WIRES AND VACUUM LINES FOR PROPER LOCATION ON REASSEMBLY.

6                    KEEP ALL TOOLS CLEAN, AND USE PROPER SIZE SOCKETS.

7                   USE SMALL PLASTIC BAGS AND A MAGIC MARKER TO PROPERLY IDENTIFY BOLTS THAT YOU TAKE OFF SO THEY CAN BE INSTALLED CORRECTLY IN THE PROPER LOCATION UPON REASSEMBLY.

8                   ANY PARTS REMOVED SHOULD BE INSPECTED FOR WEAR OR FLAWS.  KEEP A LIST OF NEW PARTS TO BE ORDERED.

9                   WHEN IT TIME TO JACK UP YOUR VEHICLE TO DISCONNECT UNDER THE VEHICLE YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING—A JACK THAT HAS THE PROPER CAPACITY TO LIFT THE VEHICLE, JACK STANDS THAT HAVE THE PROPER CAPACITY TO SUPPORT THE VEHICLE —- NEVER GO UNDER A VEHICLE THAT IS ONLY HELD UP BY A JACK. THE BEST WAY IS TO START OUT ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND CEMENT IS BEST, LIFT THE VEHICLE WITH THE JACK AT THE PROPER LIFTING POINTS THEN PROPERLY SET THE JACK STAND AND LOWER THE VEHICLE ON TO STAND. ONCE VEHICLE IS SAFELY LIFTED AND SECURED THEN USE A CREEPER TO GO UNDER IT. YOU WILL NEED SAFETY GLASSES BECAUSE ANYTHING YOU DISCONNECT UNDER VEHICLE WILL HAVE A LOT OF RUST AND ROAD DIRT ON IT.

10              MANY MECHANICS WILL TRY TO REMOVE THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION AS AN ASSEMBLY, THIS IS A JUDGMENT CALL.  IF POSSIBLE IT MAY BE EASIER TO  LINE UP THE TRANS & ENGINE WHEN IT IS OUT OF THE CHASSIS AS AN ASSEMBLY. BUT BE SURE THAT THE HOIST YOU’RE USING IS CAPABLE OF THE COMBINED WEIGHT OF ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY. IF YOU CHOOSE TO LEAVE THE TRANSMISSION IN THE CHASSIS, THEN PROPERLY SUPPORT IT BEFORE REMOVING ENGINE. BE SURE TO USE COMMON SENSE AT THIS POINT, YOU’LL BE LIFTING A LOT OF WEIGHT SO NEVER WORK UNDER AN ENGINE THAT IS UP IN THE AIR, LOWER IT FIRST, ALWAYS THINK OF IT THIS WAY, IF IT SLIPS OR FALLS WHERE WILL YOU BE. ALWAYS STAY CLEAR.

                    ITEMS THAT SHOULD BE REPLACED DURING INSTALLATION.

1.      Many Times a Radiator Looks Acceptable. But the Truth of the Matter is the Tiny Little Tubes that the Coolant Flows through can be Partially Restricted and Cause Overheating & Engine Damage. You’ve made a Considerable Investment in an engine-Protect It! We recommend replacing the original Radiator with a 4 core Heavy Duty Radiator.

2.      HOSES AND CLAMPS: HOSES CAN COLLAPSE, LEAK, OR SUCK AIR INTO SYSTEM, REPLACE ALL HOSES. CAUTION LOWER RADIATOR HOSE MUST CONTAIN A COIL SPRING INSIDE IT OR IT CAN COLLAPSE AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND STARVE BLOCK FOR COOLANT.

3.      FAN SHROUD HELPS THE FAN PULL COOL AIR THROUGH THE RADIATOR, CHECK FOR CRACKS OR MISSING PIECES.

4.      RADIATOR CAP — MOST MODERN ENGINES REQUIRE A 14 LB. CAP. FOR EVERY LB. OF PRESSURE THAT YOU RAISE YOUR COOLING SYSTEM YOU RAISE YOUR BOILING POINT 2 DEGREES. EXAMPLE NORMAL BOILING POINT IS 212 DEGREES WITH A 14 LB. CAP YOUR BOILING POINT NOW BECOMES 240 DEGREES.

5.      FAN AND OR FAN CLUTCH—- THIS IS IMPORTANT FOR PROPER COOLING.AN EASY WAY TO CHECK TO SEE IF THE FAN IS PULLING THE PROPER AMOUNT OF AIR THROUGH THE RADIATOR, PLACE A PIECE OF NEWSPAPER ON THE FRONT OF THE RADIATOR IF THE FAN IS WORKING PROPERLY IT WILL PULL THE NEWSPAPER TIGHTLY AGAINST THE RADIATOR.

6.      REPLACE FAN BELTS AND CHECK PULLEYS FOR CRACKS OR DAMAGE, A BROKEN $ 5.00 BELT COULD WASTE A $5,000 ENGINE.

7.      MOTOR MOUNTS, A BROKEN OR SAGGED MOUNT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS VIBRATIONS.

8.      CHECK EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR ANY RUSTED OUT PARTS.

9.      CHECK CLUTCH DISC, PRESSURE PLATE, THROW OUT AND PILOT BEARING FOR WEAR.

10.  CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANS FOR LEAKS, BROKEN MOUNTS, OR LEAKY MODULATOR.

11.  DRIVESHAFT— CHECK UNIVERSAL JOINTS FOR WEAR

12. Look Over any Special Sensors or Switches. Replace as Necessary 

Oil Recommendations Any SAE oil 10w30, 10w40

Break in 1000 miles before leaning on the engine hard
Wait 5-6,000 miles before using synthetic oil

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PLEASE REVIEW PRIOR TO ENGINE INSTALLATION

 IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED TURN-KEY ENGINE IT HAS BEEN LIVE RUN, AND TESTED FOR 45 MINUTES, ALL ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE.

  1. Review enclosed DVD
  2. Engines are shipped without any oil, add 6 quarts of 10W/30 oil,  and then top off.
  3. Fuel system has been tested for leaks. It is the installing mechanics responsibility to inspect fuel system for leaks during and after installation.
  4. Flywheel and Harmonic Balancer must stay with engine to maintain proper balance of engine.
  5. MAX RPM’s of this engine is 5800 RPM or DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.
  6. Distributor, Valves and Carburetor have been adjusted, no further adjustment necessary.
  7. Coil and Electric Choke positive terminal must be hooked up to 12 volt key controlled (on and off with key).
  8. Call Edlebrock with fuel related problems: 1-800-416-8628.
  9. Thermostat — leave it out until you road test the vehicle, when you see the Engine is running nice and cool then install a 180 degree stat
  10. 92 Octane fuel recommended; always use clean fresh fuel.

 OIL PRESSURE COLD_______70 PSI______ OIL PRESSURE HOT_______50 PSI______

 COOLANT TEMPERATURE____180 DEGREES____ INITIAL IGNITION TIMING IS SET AT ___10 DEGREES__BTDC 

  • Always install a new radiator, be sure that fan is pulling a good amount of air through radiator, be sure that lower radiator hose has a coil spring inside it, important to bleed trapped air from cooling system when filling radiator we suggest leaving thermostat out until all air is expelled from block and heads, monitor system with a gauge, never exceed 230 degrees.
  • Choke positive terminal must be hooked up to 12 volt key controlled ignition (on and off with key)    always install a throttle return spring.
  •  If you have any problems with this carb, call Edelbrock carb hotline 1-800-416-8638 7 am – 5 pm PST; carb warranty is 90 days.
  •  If we supply engine with an alternator run a 10 gauge wire from the terminal on the back of alternator to battery positive. Do not remove rubber plug, also run a separate ground wire from engine block to frame, no other wiring is necessary, system will charge at 14.2 volts.
  •   The complete fuel system has been checked for leaks. It is the installing mechanics responsibility to check for leaks at start up.
  •  Install A 180 degree thermostat after you have road tested vehicle and know that Engine is running nice and cool.
  •  This flywheel and front balancer must remain with this engine for proper engine balance.
  •  If your vehicle has a manual transmission your clutch pedal must be adjusted so that it has free play or engine thrust bearing damage will occur, this is not covered by your warranty.
  •   It is normal for oil press to drop 20 psi from cold to hot.
  •  Never use an abrasive disc to clean gasket surfaces, abrasive becomes airborne and works its way into oiling system and destroys engine, use a hand scraper only.

 For a successful installation please follow all instructions and review entire video.

 

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[tabs_panel title=”Suggested Parts”]

General Suggested Parts to Inspect / or Replace with your New Engine

Inspect / Replace when necessary REPLACE NEW
Radiator X
Starter X
Automatic Trans X
Tourque Converter X
Manual Transmission X
Clutch Kit X
Yoke X
Drive Shaft X
Electric Fan X
Mechanical Fan X
Sensors/Switches X
Radiator Cap X
Coolant Hoses X
A/C Lines X
P/S Lines X
Rear End Gears X

Tune Up Parts

Manufacturer Part# Notes
Spark Plugs Champion RC12YC .045 Gap
Ignition Wires Accel
Distributor
Cap and Rotor Kit
Ignition Coil
Fuel Filter Edelbrock 8129 for braided fuel line
Oil Filter FRAM
Air Cleaner Proform 66804
PCV Valve PCV 71
Breather Proform / Mr. Gasket

A.C. Compressor:                Sandon Compressor accepts R134A Refrigerant 

MARCH WARRANTY AND TECHNICAL INFO ——-888-729-9070

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 Frequently Asked Engine Prep and Installation Questions

[sws_ui_toggle title=”Q. What’s the best way to lift the engine?” closed=”true” jui_theme=”ui-smoothness” duration=”500″]

A. If the lifting points are Accessible, pickup diagonally from the front Left or Right Front Cylinder Head to the Rear Left or Right Cylinder Head. Otherwise from exhaust port holes in the cylinder Heads. Use a high grade Bolt. USE a heavy duty chain or cable long enough to prevent scratching the Valve covers or damaging the Air Cleaner

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[sws_ui_toggle title=”Q. What grade Oil do you recommend and how often should I change the Oil?” closed=”true” jui_theme=”ui-smoothness” duration=”500″]

A. We normally suggest using a high Grade SAE 10W / 30 Motor oil. After 4 to 5 oil changes if you would like to go with a synthetic or blended version then this is O.K. Do an initial oil change after 500 Miles then just every 3000 miles from there.

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[sws_ui_toggle title=”Q. What do I need to do to break in the Camshaft and engine?” closed=”true” jui_theme=”ui-smoothness” duration=”500″]

A. Engine Factory will normally do the break in of the camshaft on our Turnkey Carbureted engines. Upon taking your vehicle on the road for the first time stagger the throttle from 30 to 50 MPH several times to get the Piston Rings seated properly. Keep the RPMs under 4000 RPMs for the first 1000-2000 miles.

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[sws_ui_toggle title=”Q. What is the max Redline RPM on this engine?” closed=”true” jui_theme=”ui-smoothness” duration=”500″]

A. Keep them under 5800 RPMs. The power starts to drop above this anyway in most Street Engines. You will have all the power you’ll ever need below this level anyway. Going beyond this definitely increases your chances of damaging internal Parts and will not covered under warranty.

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[sws_ui_toggle title=”Q. What’s the proper way of filling the Cooling system?” closed=”true” jui_theme=”ui-smoothness” duration=”500″]

A. When filling cooling system, top off Radiator with 50/50 Mixture of Antifreeze and Water with engine cold. After engine is started check coolant Level after engine reaches 180 F. Top off as necessary. Always use caution around hot coolant, Always use a temperature gauge not an idiot light.

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[sws_ui_toggle title=”Q. What other parts should I replace or upgrade before installing the engine?” closed=”true” jui_theme=”ui-smoothness” duration=”500″]

A. This can be a huge list but one of the most important ones to mention would be the Radiator. Use a brand new Aluminum or 3 to 4 core Radiator to keep your replacement engine cool. Some other items would include Engine and Transmission Mounts, Clutch, Torque converter, Fan, belts, hoses, U-Joints, pulleys, hoses and clamps, fuel lines, sensors etch. Reference our installation tips list along with a manual. If you don’t feel comfortable to take this on then contact a qualified mechanic. Early model vehicles with drum brakes should be converted to disc brakes when installing a high performance engine.

 

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