FORD V8 ENGINE CONVERSION CHARTS
We have received numerous questions on what’s needed to swap out to a larger engine. The Charts below are a list of items needed to swap a 302 / 351w in place of a 4, 6 or Earlier 8 Cylinder Ford Engine.
Going with one of Engine Factory’s Turnkey engine along with the laundry list of parts below will make you better prepared to change out your engine and experience power of a V8 Motor. This list below does not represent every nut and bolt needed but this will be a very good indicator of what is needed.
This list is based upon mostly a Carbureted engine swap but we do offer a plug n play fuel injection kit that will work just as well when using the stand alone computer, harness and sensors with the kit provided.
When installing a larger / higher horsepower engine over what the original factory vehicle, other safety measures may be needed. IE. Frame reinforcement, safety harnesses, suspension and brake upgrades.
Most of the Engine Swaps are achievable with proper planning, basic equipment and some hands on skills.
Fuel Injection to Carburetion
Carburetion to Fuel Injection
4 Cylinder 2300 OHC to 302 or 351w V8
200 I-6 to 302 Ford V8
3.8 V6 to 302 or 351w V8
300 I6 to 302 or 351w
221, 260 or 289 to 302 or 351w V8
302 to 351w V8 Conversion
351c to 351w V8 Conversion
2.8 or 2.9 V6 TO 302 Ford
4.6 to 302 V8
Early Bronco Conversions
87-96 EFI Ford Truck Conversions
87-95 Mustang Conversions
C4 Automatic to T5 5 Speed
Mustang Fuel Injection to Carburetor Conversion
1) The fuel pump. Fuel injection uses a high pressure fuel pump. You can run the in tank pump with a regulator before the carburetor. However, this is not advisable, especially if you do not run a return line, because the pressure will creep with the pump running and the car not running. If you have 40 PSI at the input to your carb, you will destroy the needle valves. So, either run an electric pump with 6-7lbs. of pressure for a carb outside of the gas tank or just use a mechanical Fuel pump. It may be advisable to replace the in tank fuel pump with a carb pickup line.
2) Since you will be
installing an engine without any of the sensors normally found on an FI car, the
computer will have no inputs, rendering it pretty much useless for controlling
Since the computer is no longer controlling fuel or ignition, you may as well remove it to get rid of some extra weight. (It's really amazing how much all that copper wire weighs). Remove kick panel in front of EEC. Disconnect 8-pin harness going to: Fuel pump Trigger, Ign+, AC wot wire, Signal ground, power feed, and a couple others I don't remember. Remove the EEC and the EEC power relay (right above EEC). Remove the harness from the inside of the car, from under the hood. Wear gloves unless you like tearing your fingers open when the rubber plug in the firewall pops, like I did. Then for the Chassis harness (the one that comes into the engine bay from the drivers side), you have to save the following wires: Oil pressure sender, Temp Sender, Tach feed, IGN, 1 Power wire (the one in the same harness as all the rest of the chassis wires). That's about it. If you want to use the fuel pump relay and the inertia switch to drive an electric fuel pump in the back of the car, you have to short a few wires in the harness disconnected by the EEC. IGN to FPR+, Ground to FPR-.
3) When you purchase one of our complete Turnkey Carbureted engines, Engine Factory will provide the engine with the necessary accessories. IE: A/C, P/S and Alternator. The engine will come ready to run. Hook up a few hot wires, headers and tranny. That's it. Your car should now be ready to run with a carb.
Carbureted to Fuel injection
This is definitely a common question. Changing over to Fuel Injection has become easier than ever before. We offer a Complete Plug n Play EFI engine that has a classic look with Modern day performance. All the Harnesses and Sensors included. The ECU is actually built into the Throttle Body. More Details on the Boss EFI System Here. We test run the engine and make the adjustments necessary to get the engine up and running. What's nice about it is there is a limited amount of hookup, everything is clearly labeled and you don't need any special skills to get your engine up and running. Very similar hookup to a Carbureted engine as far as wiring goes. Fine adjustments with a Laptop can be done if you desire. The fuel line kit and fuel pump is also included. Engine Factory has tested several other Fuel injection kits only to find much more complex setup time, restrictions on the camshaft, distributor and a lot more wiring and harnesses and fine tuning. The Boss EFI engines we offer will run approx. $2,000 more than our Carbureted engines so this is something that you need to weigh out. We suggest if you drive your vehicle only once in a while, maybe a weekend warrior then a Carbureted engine can work just fine for you to keep some cost down. The new Carbs are improved from the early years. But if you put a lot of miles on your car, drive in different climates, elevations, get a little better gas mileage or just stand out from the crowd then converting over to the Boss EFI engine can be a great way of going.
Going over to a 87-93 Style Mustang Conversion EFI engine from a Carbureted engine does require quite a bit more time and expertise. It would be best to get a donor vehicle that has all the necessary pieces to make the swap easier. Computer, harness, sensors, fuel related items like injectors, fuel lines and accessories.